Reason number 731 why the rich are different than you or I:
Heated floors in the bathroom.
When we first arrived here, I noticed that, in the downstairs bathroom we’re using, there was this little thermostat with a funny icon on it that displayed a perpetual temperature of 74 degrees Farenheit. In the heat of the day and the chill of the night it read the same. I figured it wasn’t working right or something.
This morning was the first time I stepped on that tile floor in my bare feet. Glazed terra cotta tiles, just like the ones in the hall – only those have rugs scattered over them. Immediately I noticed that the floor wasn’t chilly under my feet and thought “that’s odd” – then I sat down and saw the thermostat and realized that the odd icon was of — a foot! Yeah. A heater under the floor so that the terra cotta isn’t too cold under one’s lil tootsies first thing in the a.m. It would not have occurred to me that such things even existed!
Ya Know, this homeless business ain’t so bad the way it’s playing out. A thousand miles North of Bolinas, but I still hear the sound of the surf at night. The place we’re staying is literally right on the water:
This is another beautiful spot. Not quite perhaps to the level of the palace in Mexico, but close and quite as lovely in its own way. It also has the advantage of having the house rigged for wireless internet, so I’m happy as the clams that people dig on these beaches.
I really do have to be careful - I’m eating too much and not cooking. Not just worrying about my jeans fitting, but my digestion is starting to give warning signals after a few days of luxurious cuisine and excellent wine. I probably would have done better to have skipped the wine and passed on the white chocolate cake layered with fresh strawberries and whipped cream. Yeah, I’m sure I should have, but I am a mere, weak mortal, subject to the temptations of the flesh. Oh, my, do I love those temptations!
Besides, the cake was served to me by one of the most beautiful women in the universe. I probably would have eaten a plate of pig’s eyeballs if she’d smiled and handed them to me.
Normally I don’t find girls as skinny as this one to be beautiful. Ngawang, however, has that kind of silk over steel strength that makes it okay somehow. There’s power in her slender elegance. She’s our friend Tom’s adopted daughter. I’ve known her since she was about 14 and had just arrived in this country - a big-eyed, high strung Tibetan kid fascinated with American pop culture. Now 16 years later she’s become an incredibly poised young woman - smart, spunky, perceptive. Still a hint of pop culture in the way she wears her blue jeans, but she’s ripened and matured. I do chuckle as her speech, in Tibetan, is peppered with the phrase “rewa” which is the equivalent of our English, “ya know.” So she sounds young. But she’s not that little kid anymore. Her life isn’t easy on some levels - she’s married to the Dalai Lama’s nephew and therefore there is constant political pressure, expectations and the need for impeccable behavior. I admire her grace under fire tremendously. And she’s got the most elegant bone structure of anyone I know.
Wow, I sure do digress! I enjoy observing people though, seeing the different ways they move through life, different styles and attitudes and hopes and fears. Even the rare folks I don’t much like I still find interesting to observe. Here, in this place that is so different from the life I just fled, I try sometimes to step back and see things from a fresh perspective. Barring that, I try to ask questions that would never have occurred to me in other contexts and situations. Don’t always come up with answers, but there are endless questions.
There are children in this house - 3 girls from 5 to 11 and a couple of teenaged boys and yet I rarely get more than a glimpse of them. They seem to have their own world, their own space that is complete unto itself and entirely separate from the adult houseguests. The little ones are sweet-faced and a bit shy. The room Lena and I have been given is referred to as the “play room” and there are, indeed, a big heap of kid’s toys piled in the far corner behind the leather sofa. I guess it’s one of the indoor spaces where the kids can rampage unchecked. I know there are a couple more too. So this morning, as I was waking up, the middle girl started to charge into the room, realized there was someone already here and, with an express of absolute horror, she turned and ran away again. Her world has been co-opted by strange adults!
I just find it really odd to look around here and see that, yeah there are barbies, trucks, crayons, etc.scattered around and the computer in here is on a kid sized desk (and chairs - little tiny chairs) but it’s interspersed with jade carvings, pre-colombian artifacts and pottery and the carpet is hand-knotted Afghan. I think this must be the “overflow room”. We feel a little like sneaky kids ourselves, Lena and I, when, in the morning, we bypass the “household” coffee which is half decaf and hide downstairs in the butler’s pantry where we’ve stashed our own high-octane java and real cream in the fridge. Suzanne, the housekeeper, gives us fishy eyes when she sees us emptying our press pot ground in the sink down there. On the other hand, I think Tom’s cook is just as glad that we’re staying out of “her” kitchen. Profirea is one of the few people on this earth that Lena admits to being scared of!
We’re here for 2 more days and then we head down to Portland. I’m not sure exactly where we’ll be staying while we’re there - it’s something we’re still trying to work out to everyone’s satisfaction. Lama has friends that he’ll be staying with, but we’ve got to figure out the best plan of action for Lena and I that will let us see our daughter and family but won’t have us running back and forth a dozen times a day.
Once again I’m running off at the keyboard when I should be sleeping. My eyes are starting to get really heavy and I am hoping to meet some friends in Seattle for breakfast tomorrow, so I’d better at least make the attempt to sleep. I’m really getting good at being able to sleep in whatever bed, couch or bunk I find myself in on any given night.
So here it is Sunday evening. The internet connection is down again here which is very frustrating. It was working fine this morning, but is now offline and the head of the household is busy so no way to get it fixed, so I’m just going to write offline and post this when I’m able to. I’m learning to be patient about such things since the alternative is to be impatient and frustrated continuously.
Dropped in briefly at the workshop at the convention centre. It’s rather convenient that this is occurring now when I happen to be in Seattle. Several friends were facilitating workshops so I got the okay from the “boss” to attend this afternoon. It was great to see both Silva and Rose again – I always find it interesting to intersect with people when all of us are somewhere other than our home bases.
So I just had a typical “Joy” moment right as I got back. I ducked into the downstairs with my grotty press pot coffee cup to wash it and pour the dead coffee grounds down the sink. I’m coming out of the pantry with it when people come in the outside door. It’s lovely Ngawang, her husband Tenzing and an older Tibetan gentleman in khakis. I know Ngawang and Tenzing and we say hi and the older fellow extends his hand to shake. Which I do and then realize that my hand is cold and dripping wet and has coffee grounds on it just as Ngawang introduces him. And, naturally, it’s Nari Rimpoche – Tenzing’s father (see yesterday’s post) – who just happens to be in town for the day! Lovely first impression. I couldn’t have done better unless I’d come out of the bathroom with my skirt hem tucked into my underwear and toilet paper stuck to my shoe! Ah well. I’m sure I’ll get to make an even bigger fool out of myself over dinner in a few minutes. Sometimes the situation is beyond protocol and all you can do is bow, smile brightly and think “ah, fuck it!”
I did have a funny minute this afternoon at the conference when I found myself flirting with someone who proceeded to proposition me for tonight. And I had to decline, pleading a previous commitment. And persistent, she teasingly said, “now you know whatever your commitment is couldn’t be more fun.” To which I agreed. However, when she pushed me a bit further (nicely, not pushy but making her interest clear) I said that I really couldn’t change my plans as I was having dinner with the Dalai Lama’s brother. At which point she stopped, cocked her head to one side and said: “I’ve never heard that excuse before. That’s a good one!” and gave me her phone number for the future.
It looks to be quite the family party tonight. The whole clan appears to be gathering for dinner. Lots of kids, in laws, etc. There is the sound of massive chopping coming from the kitchen and, more strangely what sounds like several bushels of small brass bells being rolled down the stairs in the back of the house. No clue. Now if it were a loud booming ring, that might make sense – When I picked Lama Wangdor and Lena up at the airport the other day, they had a large brass gong with them. So there’s a gong around here somewhere, but not a bushel of bells. And this is the point where I can’t follow the conversation because they are all talking Tibetan waaaay too fast for me to keep up. I can follow normal conversation fairly well. But not a roomful of native speakers all talking at once. I catch one word in five, just enough to baffle me. So we’re down here letting them have family time. I just discovered that our host has come down with flu and, after being doctored and dosed by Lena, has gone to bed already. So we’re going to be the only two non-Tibetans (and more importantly, non-family) at this shindig. And I’ll be the only one not absolutely fluent in the language. I guess I end up talking to the kids.